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Lunch break
  • jgion 292w ago

    what a glorious lunch break! i need to plan my next sb trip soon! xo

More posts from this user

Wyoming sky over the lower Fontenelle river with dad and Tuck
Not this year folks 😭but the memories live on!
Looks nice right? That's what I thought too until learning there's anywhere from 10-40 Great Whites right near that little island. Quite possibly the sharkiest break on the planet.
J Bay's supertubes from Dreamland deck at first light the morning of the epic swell #a7rii
Vietnamese floating market in a tiny corner of Ha Long bay. Only the essentials for @dvrse 😂
With...without...and who'll deny, it's what the fighting's all about
Handling some much friendlier sandbar sharks while tagging and releasing with @dvrse at CCU
Feeding some South African Petrels (I think? @charles_post ) while going 25 knots on the way to the 🦈 gym 📷 @charles.bethea
This is (and will probably always be) the sharkiest place I've ever surfed. While I was out there, my dad, @dvrse and @charles.bethea were cage diving with great whites about a mile away. The afternoon prior, we saw 18 different GW's. I felt like I had to face my fear and paddle out. As luck would have it, no one was there when I showed up, so I surfed by myself for about 30 minutes until the next guy paddled out. After coming face to face with the ultimate predator, part of my mind wanted to be more scared after witnessing the speed, ferocity, and razor sharp teeth. The other part was less scared after seeing the intelligence and awareness these animals have compared to other sharks I've worked with. They quickly discern what's food and what isn't. What became undeniable was the acute increase in respect for the ocean, coupled with total surrender to being lower on the food chain. I almost found serenity...until a large seal jumped 4 feet out of the water less than a board's length from me. After emerging from my second barrel and wiping the spray from my eyes, I still thought, "yep, worth it". Massive respect to the locals that face the reality of an encounter with one of those creatures every time they paddle out, and happy #internationalsurfingday
With every slice of heaven there's a devil lurking just beneath
A slice of heaven in South Africa...J bay at sunrise yesterday