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gqgio 1y ago
In the field with cult Andrew Luck with it 🐴🌺💦🍯
Hope your day has been as tropical as mine 🍍🌴
When I shaped this board I wanted it to ride like a 6'4" or something longer than the short boards that I've been riding the last few years. But then I cut the nose off to get rid of the extra foam and turn it into a 5'10". I know how important was Jack McCoy's "No Nose" design in the short board revolution. You can see this design on Cheyne Horan boards. If he wasn't too crazy experimenting those weird fin set ups he would be 2 or 3x world champion easily. When he ordered a normal quiver of thrusters at the end of 1989 he ended up winning the Sunset Pro in Hawaii. I noticed other guys recently doing the same like Nathan Fletcher where the half end is like a normal 6'0" and then he pulls the nose into a 5'5" or something. If you watch the videos from the early 90's when everyone was riding longer boards like 6'2"s and 6'4"s they seem to have a lot of more drive and speed. Anyways, this board is really simple and works good, it's super fun, and since I'm not training to win any major event 😜... (Thanks @pcboards for all your help to make this dream come true). #diy #surfboards #shaper #surflifestyle #undergroundartist #sanclemente #california #soulsurfer #freesurf #freespirit
Dear ocean it would be just SWELL if you could bring back the warm water 💕 @epicsurfskills
I changed the fins and this board rode completely different. I was using the Carver Medium and the board always felt a little stiff. But I thought it was the board itself since I created this design and co-shaped it and it's thick and wide. Then I put the Performer Medium in the middle and kept the Carver on the sides and the board already felt much better, then a put the Performer on the sides as well and I love it. It so much looser and controlled. I learned that fins make a big difference. #surflifestyle #selfshapedsurfboard #uppers #sanclemente #california #fins #underground #stateofart #layback #instadaily #boom
Board, two chairs, towels, cooler with lunch, umbrella, camera gear, sunscreen, binoculars, Bluetooth speaker = set for a long day at uppers. Wish @chrisevanssurf was here to enjoy it with us 💙

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